A collection inspired by the 90's, with a riot of pastel and ton sur ton shades for the minimal winter of 2020, in which linen is rediscovered as a winter fabric. 

Entitled &quot;Year 97&quot;, this co-ed collection, woman and man, transposes today the purity of Simon&#39;s first creations. Reflecting his time and the rise of <a href="https://www.lofficielitalia.com/uomo/jacquemus-spring-summer-2020">Jacquemus</a> , a wardrobe that combines utility and poetry. The first linen looks are a declaration of sensuality, with the body exposing itself thanks to the overlapping of natural materials in tone-on-tone colors, such as white and cream. The silhouettes are dry, with body-con skirts and micro tops for her, over jackets and wide trousers for him. A collection that &quot;slips&quot; without forcing, 100% &agrave; la Jacquemus with a cast of supermodels, starting from Laeticia Casta, muse of Simone followed by the sisters Hadid, Mica Arganaz, Doutzen Kroes, Adut Akech, Joan Smalls and Vittoria Ceretti for the women&#39;s collection, while she chose the supermodels Parker van Noord, Jarrod Scott, Cyrus Amini and the boxer Alexis Chaparro for the men&#39;s outings.

Femininity is instinctive: skirts that highlight curves and draped shirt dresses or polo shirts that embrace the lines of the body, details such as the bra-top and the return of sculpted heel shoes to be worn with knee socks are the strongest statements and protagonists of the next season. Sweaters with thick zipper, polo shirt in dense chenille and short cardigans in mohair, give the clothes a studied softness. Linen, the fetish fabric of the maison, is reworked and becomes a winter fabric: laser perforated, delicately frayed or cut into discs embroidered with small beads. The male wardrobe continues to explore the key and more classic pieces, such as the parka, the caban or the trench coat. Some trousers and shorts are offered in new sustainable fiber materials, combined with denim treated with shades of degraded colors. Still others enjoy the fake open flap effect, hence the boxer shorts (with prints sometimes inspired by typical breakfast foods such as crepes) protruding from the pants, just like it was done in the 90s, in combination with derby shoes or clogs or sebago, bucket hats. The vest over the shirts is also back, such as the beige look with a checked pattern, the denim overalls lowered and used as a combo trousers with an oversized white shirt, the coach jacket with oversized trousers and a gangsta rap cap; it is no coincidence that the ending ends with a remix of Coolio&#39;s &quot;Gangsta Paradise&quot;, a cult musician in the late nineties. Different details can be found in both women&#39;s and men&#39;s wardrobes, starting with coats with rounded shoulders and volumes, or the decisively designed down jacket presented in treated linen and with padding created with recycled fibers, for the first time used in the collection and for the first time, on Jacquemus&#39; declaration, in an attempt to become, to tend, much greener. The color palette draws its freshness from the faded shades enriched by bright colors. Monochromatic or mono-materials, what emanates from these uniforms seems a sensation of lightness, where only some pop shades of pink and purple are counterbalanced by gray-beige and persimmon. Men&#39;s fashion 2020 already has its protagonist: the Chiquito bag by Jacquemus. Among the most crucial accessories of the last decade, the starting point of the trend of micro bags, it is presented for the first time in a male version. Chiquito has upset the stereotype of women&#39;s bags: the oversized dimensions, the softness of the materials and the infinite capacity disappear, the designer has thus changed the universe of accessories forever, minimizing the outlines and surfaces. We rediscover the essentiality of the form, but at the same time we focus on the superfluous, on that object that is distorted and that loses its main function - in Chiquito , there is barely a lipstick or a credit card. In an elegant military green shade declined on smooth leather, the Chiquito replaces the thin original leather shoulder strap with a large one made of fabric and with silver metal hooks. There are many new bags: a chic model with a rigid handle, a large velvet-effect leather tote, another, suitable for both day and evening, squared waist bags to be worn on the shoulders. Lifestyle accessories such as an iPhone 11 case to be worn around the neck, a bottle holder complete the collection together with a series of bracelets with pendants that incorporate the symbols of the Jacquemus house, as well as a bracelet and a necklace adorned with gold plates; they are nothing but references and memories of the year 1997. After the parade-event in Provence that celebrated the ten years of the brand, Simone Porte-Jacquemus asked himself what he could do to identify a new chapter of the maison. &ldquo;Is fashion useful? Do people need it, do they really need it? For the first time in my career, I was wondering what my latest collection would look like. I remembered my very first creation, a skirt for my mother. It was 1997 and I was seven years old. I took a linen curtain that I had at home and, with scissors, I cut a skirt to which I added a green lace. An item of exceptional simplicity. But when the skirt was worn by my mother (and she wore it!), It made her beautiful. I wanted to go back to this idea, that is that clothes can be sophisticated despite having a minimal and pure style. I wanted a lot of linen. I wanted to draw timeless looks. This collection means a lot to me. Today, instead of presenting my most recent collection, I opened a new chapter for the brand: a Jacquemus wardrobe for the start a new decade, in the name of style &quot;. At seven, Simon probably did not imagine where he would be today, yet it seems clear that since childhood the awareness that the most felt inspiration is found in simplicity has increased. Which is true elegance.

Jacquemus and the exaltation of monochrome

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